There’s a tiny workshop tucked away in the Spanish Quarter of Naples, Italy. In it, 34-year-old Salvatore Ambrosi can be found running his family’s bespoke trouser business, Ambrosi Napoli. Here, along with his father Antonio, he is hard at work hand cutting and stitching up to 13 pairs of the family’s cult-favourite made-to-measure trousers a day.
The process of being measured by Antonio for a pair of his trousers is a most amusing one. It begins with him casting an eye over your legs as his son, Salvatore, makes a few tape measurements. The entire process lasts about 30 seconds and will leave you bewildered.
‘Surely that’s not enough time to measure me for a pair of pants,’ you’ll think. But you’ll be wrong. And not only will the pants be correctly cut, beautifully sewn and wonderfully finished, but they will also fit you better than any pair of trousers you’ve ever worn since the day you graduated from playsuits. And you’ll know instantly, even without looking in the mirror, that until the day you die, you’ll never be able to find trousers that fit better than those the Ambrosis have created. This is the reason why that men have flown Ambrosi—all expenses included—around the globe in order to acquire made-to-measure pairs.
But, be forewarned: Antonio and Salvatore make only one kind of trousers. It ranges between slim to very slim cut, it features double inverted pleats, it is narrow bottomed, medium to low waisted, generally generously cuffed, and just a whisker on the short side – as is the style in Napoli.
But the trousers are far more than the sum of their parts, because, through years of experimentation, Antonio Ambrosi has arrived at a style of trousers that will make you instantly look 10 pounds lighter and three inches taller. When asked about this, Salvatore Ambrosi chuckles and replies, ‘In our part of Italy, men are a bit on the shorter side. So, we make trousers that create a sense of height.’
The trousers that these men so desire are a slim- or very slim-cut with plenty of cuffing, double inverted pleats, a narrow bottom, and a low waist. They are made of fabric hailing from the halls of the best fabric makers in the world, including Holland & Sherry, Lora Piana, Vitale Barberis Canonico, Vigil. No detail spared, they are also lined with fine shirting material for a lighter feel at the waistline, and flies can come with zips or the more elegant 8-button option.